Yes, India I love you!
I love your incredible diversity; your geography, food, traditions, music, customs, colorful dress, history, nature, architecture, and most importantly your unbelievably hospitable people. I’ve traveled extensively, from Bhubaneshwar to Dharamshala, all the way south to Kochi. I’ve stayed in fishing villages, on farms, in the cities and explored remote indigenous communities.
Having experienced 58 countries to date, I rarely make repeat visits, but India demands exception. I rank India as the #1 destination worldwide. It has everything a traveler could dream of, and more.
And the food! It’s like as many varieties as you may possibly desire. As a vegetarian, it’s difficult to find suitable foods abroad, but here, my hungers have always been satisfied. I’ve collected recipes, and been taught to prepare a wide array of classic dishes. I’ve learned that kichari offers endless variations and I’ve tasted fruits I never knew existed.
I’ve been honored to speak at many schools, institutions and events where I was hosted graciously and treated like royalty. Honestly, it has been truly humbling. In all my 66 years, I have never felt so special as I have in my beloved Bharat. A beautiful nation with a beautiful soul.
This time I was thrilled to return to India after a 4-year absence. I navigated from city to city, and state to state, by trains and buses. The infrastructure is shockingly punctual for such a massive network. Upon my arrival in Mumbai from London, I navigated seamlessly for 5 days on local trains and buses before hopping a night bus south to Goa.
This time during my rides I noticed that garbage had accumulated in many places, men were overly aggressive, (I’m not here to pick up random dudes) service was less, prices higher… I could go on… but let’s just say that things were not the same.
Why did all that happen, possibly i can’t just comprehend. May be my expectations were more knowing the fact that the new India is busy making a difference in every field, every possible way.
I had arrived at the end of season (mid-March) so there were far less tourists than normal. In each shop, each restaurant, each venue, I heard the same complaint. “There are no foreigners.” Sadly, it didn’t take long to realize why. The tourists were being lured elsewhere. Places more pristine, more obliging, more warm and more welcoming.
India is losing tourism to Sri Lanka and Thailand. Why?
I found out…
I was required to exit the country to renew my visa. (A inconvenience many other countries don’t require) I booked a flight to Bangkok, stayed 2 days, then spent 12 in a homestay 3.5 hours from the city. After the previous 5 months exploring Goa, Maharashtra, then HP, the contrast was glaring. Thailand embraced me with open arms. The locals were accommodating, the food tremendous, and the streets clean. I thoroughly enjoyed each moment and felt appreciated as a guest.
On my return journey, I had a 4-hour layover in the Indira Gandhi airport before my connecting flight to Goa. I wandered around the airport then selected a restaurant for lunch and a beverage. There were 5 staff and zero customers. My overpriced nachos (airport prices are always higher) were mediocre despite having been recommended by the waitress. I was bored watching the staff on their phones. No one engaged me in conversation; no one made me feel special. I don’t like to complain, but it was disappointing, knowing how hospitality expresses itself. Anyways I shrugged it off and went on my way …
I didn’t want to write this piece, to be the squeaky wheel. But like the mother who witnesses her children’s downfalls, the teacher scolding his student whose grades have crashed from topper to average, I know you are capable of so much more; so I am compelled to plead; India clean up your act. Complaining to guests won’t generate recommendations or returns. Trashing your natural beauty is a turn off. Why should visitors care, if you don’t.
Visitors are fascinated by your festivals and celebrations but it’s disheartening to observe the aftermath. The firecrackers strewn on the streets, the garbage washing up on the beaches, the toxic plastics being burned on the roadsides. The foreigners are not causing these problems, it’s you.
I’ve been bragging about India since my first stay in 2019. The photos and posts on my social media were instrumental in painting an enticing view of a place typically discarded as a potential destination. Comments from my followers were filled with awe and interest.
I’m reluctant to post much on this trip. I’m embarrassed to do so because I am looking forward to experiencing India’s greatness all the way so that I would love to pass on to other travellers coming from foreign lands. Please, I’m urging you, India, whatever happened, (possibly the results of Covid) find your pride, hold your head high again, show off your beauty, rekindle your endless magic only to revive India a nation of endless exploration for any traveller whose quest never ends.
For those who are shaking your heads, declaring it isn’t you causing the shift, then speak out. Talk to your neighbor; Encourage your community; Rally for team India. Don’t let another country take your trophy. Please restore my enthusiasm and adoration.
I’ll be here until February and I pray I can witness your revival before leaving.
Lastly just to remind you; if drop of poison is enough to spoil a bucketful of nectar, a single bad experience of a traveller can foil the interests of a world of travellers. So why allow that when you have everything to get the world here in India, every season and for all the good reason.
The more you realise this the better you surprise. Every traveller from any foreign land.
With all my best wishes …
Dhanyavaad for everything you have blessed me with.
Jai Hind.

Alison, a four-decade film-media veteran, is an award-winning producer, writer and journalist, documenting compelling stories worldwide, from Amazon to Himalayas